#Larson #storm door will not latch shut!
I have a Larson storm door that will not latch unless you turn the handle manually to latch it. When the door shuts on its own it just bounces off of the frame and stays open, getting caught in the wind until you go over and turn the handle to latch it.
The latch moves freely when you push it in without sticking. Even if you pull of push the door to try and latch it, it will not latch until you turn the handle.
Hopefully the pictures attached can help show better than I can describe it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for the pictures.
Since the holes for the latch were punched into the Z Bar at the factory there should not be anything wrong with that. I'm assuming the door worked fine when it was originally installed.
In the last picture where the latch was photographed from the inside the door seems to stick out more at the top than at the bottom. It could be that the frame of the house has settled and thrown the door frame and the storm door out of alignment.
If thats the case you may need to put shims behind the vertical Z-Bars of the storm door so that it is perfectly plumb and in alignment. Sometimes I completely remove the storm door and reinstall it because of settling problems. Maybe you can get away with just shimming the latch side.
Another thing to try is remove the screws that hold the latch side Z Bar on one at a time. Start from the top down on your door. See if the Z bar needs to be screwed in so it sticks out a little further. As you take each screw out, check to see if the door closes properly. Sometimes the Z bar will spring into the right position and make it obvious where it needs to be shimmed.
If you have to make the Z bar stick out more at the top, you will probably have to put shims behind the top rail to make it match the new Z bar position.
Not all door frames are perfectly straight or plumb. Sometimes when you install the storm door there will be gaps because the door frame is leaning in or leaning out by a degree or two. To fix that installers use aluminum back up rails to cover the gaps, or use a matching color of caulk to fill in the voids.
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